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STYLISHVauxhall Magazine; July 2006

Winter WonderlandWinter Wonderland

Which winter resort put the fun into funicular? We go in search of a crisp combo of winter sports, frost-free nightlife and tastebud-tingling in Chamonix. Words by Simon Hacker pictures by Corbis & Getty images

If the scenery doesn't do it, the climb will. Chamonix is a charming resort which, one way or another will take your breath away. Each winter, thousands flock here to flex their calves, sharpen their snow ploughs and gawp at the towering Mont Blanc.

With more than ninety miles of ski slopes and masses more off-piste skiing, Chamonix is a resort that has le tout ensemble - including six key beginner-to-intermediary ski areas, a set-piece snowboarding park, and glacier skiing over the highest vertical descent in the world. Beyond that, there are paragliding and helicopter trips and a nightlife that keeps going strong until dawn. There are also a variety of indoor leisure sports activities from swimming to bowling and, should you feel lucky, risking your cash in a casino.

Chamonix's snowfall proper begins in December and lasts through to May, though the resort is also base camp for year-round Alpine walking trips, rafting, ice climbing and mountain-biking.

Stroll along the pulsating Rue des Moulins on a Friday evening and it's hard to imagine how Chamonix might have looked when it was just a farming community where a set of skis was primarily a piece of working equipment. Thanks in part to Mary Shelley, whose novel Frankenstein featured a number of scenes set around 'Chamounix', and the arrival of the Victorians, who came to 'take the air', Chamonix was soon printed bold on Europe's tourism map.



In 1924, hosting the Winter Olympics reinforced the town's status as France's winter sports capital - an image that has been sharpened by a reputation for adrenalin sports.

On top of paragliding and ice climbing, Chamonix is also a popular start point for canyoning (like whitewater rafting, minus the raft), extreme skiing and mountain climbing.

The Chamonix valley has five main ski areas: Le Brévent-La Flégère and the Aiguille du Midi, reachable by cable cars, plus Les Houches, Le Tour and Argentière, just a short drive away. To reach the top of the Vallée Blanche, you can grab a ride on the renowned Aiguille du Midi cable-car, which was built in 1955. And from its 12,600-foot summit, you will get the picture - literally.

But if your confidence isn't ready for all this, don't despair. Chamonix may be Serious Ski Central, but it also has comprehensive facilities for beginners and intermediate skiers of all ages.And if you find off-pisteing the Vallée too much, you can always ride the cable car to the top for a coffee and a patisserie at the panoramic café. >