STYLISH

Back in standard shoes and with time to kill, Chamonix welcomes shoppers as enthusiastically as it welcomes skiers. The town's covered pedestrian zone was doubled in size last year and offers a plush, mixed bag of fashion and gift shops.

And once all that fresh air has stoked the appetite, what of the best refuelling points? Well, if you're descending the Vallée Blanche and heading for the funicular back to Chamonix, don't miss a lunch-stop at Montenvers Hotel (04 50 53 87 70. Or down in town, the hang-the-cost option for dinner is the Albert 1er (04 50 53 05 09), owned by Pierre Carrier, boasting a prestigious Michelin star, and where the full repas will easily disburden you of €100 a head.

Down in Chamonix Sud, you could also try Le Bistrot in the Hôtel Morgane, or Le Pannier des Quatre Saisons. For the best Chamonixian vibe though, you can't beat the rustic charm - or the 'farmer's chicken' - of L'Impossible (04 50 53 58 91).

Finally, you really shouldn't leave this resort without dancing on the table in your ski gear. . . or at least watching those who always do. In which case, Chambre Neuf, an Austrian-style après ski bar is a must. For something calmer, you could try the smooth sounds and even smoother cocktails at Le Privilège. Or hop over to Le Lapin Agile, a chic French wine bar. But whatever you do in Chamonix after the hard part of the day is over, enjoy the moment. . . after all, you'll have worked for it.