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HOTVauxhall Magazine; April 2007

IF EVER THERE WAS A PLACE TO KEEP TRAVEL WRITERS ON THEIR TOES, IT'S DUBAI. WARM, WELCOMING AND CHANGING BY THE DAY…IF EVER THERE WAS A PLACE TO KEEP TRAVEL WRITERS ON THEIR TOES, IT'S DUBAI. WARM, WELCOMING AND CHANGING BY THE DAY

Words by Simon Hacker; Pictures by Corbis and Getty Images

A short walk west brings you to Dubai's Grand Mosque, a beautifully understated building - and a reminder, as the Muezzin's call to prayer echoes out across the roofline five times a day, that for all the city's liberal character, its heart is unquestionably Islamic.

To the north's Deira district, Dubai Creek is well worth a visit. The traditional way to get here is to grab an Abra boat which will sidle up to the tangle of market streets, their sides bristling with traders jostling to sell spices, jewellery and textiles.

SHOCK OF THE NEW: The spicy tang might stay in your nostrils as far as the Sheikh Zayed Road, but be prepared for a strong change of flavour. This is Dubai's main strip, the city's spine, and the classic image of modern Dubai.

As of January 2007, the Burj Dubai stood at 105 storeys and 389 metres, already the tallest building in the Middle East. One day, with more than 220 floors planned, the Burj should become the world's tallest.



For another perspective, ride an escalator to the top of the Emirates Towers for a cocktail at Vu's Bar looking over to the world's loftiest digs.

THE MALL GOES MEGA: No visit is possible without punishing the plastic - but Dubai's tax-free shops won't hurt too badly. The Mall of the Emirates is the biggest outside North America, with brands from Accessorize to Yves Saint Laurent - not to mention its own indoor Ski Centre. Snow Mountain has a 400-metre run and 62-metre vertical drop; and yes, that's another world record. Dubai's many specialised souks are a treasure trove. For jewellery, try the gold souk near the Hyatt Regency, in Deira.

DELICIOUS DUBAI: All of which, of course, can create a wonderful appetite, but where to tuck in? Alcohol restrictions mean you may prefer to eat at a hotel. However, the choice is vast, from Iranian to Lebanese, Vietnamese to Polynesian, and full-blown American.