STYLISH

Adriatic on three sides and the towering green hills behind, the city has been a well-heeled and elegant port for centuries. It gained its independence from Venice in 1272, and in the 15th and 16th centuries it was the base for as many as 200 merchant ships - which brought both huge wealth, and the need for the imposing fortress that still dominates the coastline.

Would-be invaders could never conquer it, but a devastating earthquake in 1667 almost did. The city was totally rebuilt, and with love. During reconstruction the authorities laid down strict rules for the appearance of the facades, the height of the gables, even the frontages of the outside shops. And they planned well.

Now, in the old town, you can visit the former St Clare monastery near the main gate, the fascinating marine museum celebrating Dubrovnik's reason for existing, and the palace where the city's ruler used to reside.

The hotels that surround the old town, clinging to the coast and on the scattered islands, are of the highest quality, and the views over the sea and the town are breathtaking. The dozens of bars and restaurants are relaxed and cosmopolitan, the local specialities (and especially the fish and seafood) are superb.